I’ve got a clogged sink, and have been reading the labels on a bunch of different products lately. I’d always assumed that they were a strong acid of sorts, which would dissolve whatever sort of material was built up in the pipes. But I’ve noticed that a lot of these products specify that they’re non-corrosive, so I’m not sure what other sort of mechanism may be at play here.
A lot of these use strong bases, like sodium hydroxide, that will dissolve fats and proteins but leave most metals and plastics unharmed. (except aluminum)
You’re correct, and that’s why sometimes they work really well and sometimes they make the problem much worse and profoundly annoy the plumber you’ll eventually call to fix the issue.
A strong base + lipids stuck together in a pipe means a solid block of soap after a while, sometimes too big and clogged to be effectively rinsed with water, meaning you just made the blockage worse.
If you have PVC drains (probably unless very old) most likely you can unscrew the fittings by hand, very simple. Take the trap off (the curved part) and just pull out the clog. It’s not hard at all, take photos as you dismantle it if you’re worried about remembering how it goes back together.
there is one at Home Depot that is a black bottle inside a plastic bag, contains hydrofluoric acid that eats all the organic material clogging the drain. etched some of the metal of the plug when I used it, pretty strong stuff. only used half a bottle, drains been clean since.
always check the opening for hair and debris, almost always the culprit. I have a set of needle nose pliers in the bathroom for this specifically.
Most drain cleaners are not acids but bases - same basic idea but the other end of the pH scale. Bleach is an example of a corrosive base you’re probably familiar with. Bases were used because they were more compatible with the solder that connected copper pipes in older homes. For non-corrosive cleaners they fall into a couple classes:
Fizzy things. These loosen clogs by bubbling them apart. They are typically made by mixing a weak acid with a base - hello vinegar and baking soda! The acid may help a bit with dissolving some clogs. These can take a while
Enzyme based cleaners. An active enzyme will digest some of the bonds in hair and other components of the clog. These can take hours to be effective so don’t be in a rush.
Temperature based. Fats often make up a big component of clogs. Something as simple as boiling water can do a lot to loosen up a clog. There are fancier mixtures that will warm up the pipe to try to get things flowing.
Bases were used because they were more compatible with the solder that connected copper pipes in older homes.
Bases are much more effective at breaking up organic matter than acids. You can pour concentrated acid on your hand to little effect if you rinse it off quickly. You will not be able to do this with strong bases (think that scene from Fight Club). Strong bases rapidly destroy organic matter.
If you need to dissolve a body, use lye, not some acid.
I’ve stuck my hand in sulfuric acid and lye. No problem. You will instantly locate each and every microscopic cut on your hand. Sulfuric reacts with water to dilute instantly. Lye OTOH, yeah, takes a minute to get that off. But you will never see your hands so perfectly clean!
And if y’all mess with either, wear some damned goggles. A glass of water to the eye will quickly fix sulfuric, but you’re screwed if you splash lye in there.
Yep. Strong bases feel soapy to the touch, not because they are, but because they’re literally turning your skin into soap almost instantly.
I learned this about bleach a while back! I remember wondering why bleach felt slimy to the touch, even though it looked like it had roughly the same consistency as water. Turns out it wasn’t the bleach that was slimy, it was me. I am the slime.
This was a horrific fact to read
Thick bleach is actually slimy, though.
Thick bleach is just bleach that has already found a victim.
That may be true, but lye and bleach are still slippery with gloves on.
Also, adding heat can really help a drain cleaner work.
I pour a pot/kettle of boiling water down the drain, add the cleaner, wait whatever it says to on the bottle, then dump a second pot of boiling water down to rinse.
I unblocked a toilet with concentrated lye once, it turned the shit into black soup and was generally quite terrifying. I’m glad it didn’t dissolve the plumbing because I don’t think I could have handled the devastation. Anyway my point is they’re not made from acid, though I’ve used that on horrendous limescale.
Lye is the bomb. I keep loads of it around for making soap and other uses. You were all good, it won’t dissolve the plumbing.
I used to make a lot of soap! But hobby storage creep, I don’t know, I had to get rid of everything.
Get a drain snake; they work way better than any chemical solution.
*in that one country that inexplicably banned the installation of bottle traps
This will not work in modern plumbing
Can you elaborate?
Show a yank this picture and watch them start frothing at the mouth and shrieking about “muh code” 😂
Get therapy.
yank
Are you from the king’s land where you need separate taps for hot and cold water or the one where you stand on the pissing grates at the urinal?
I’m pretty sure we’re allowed mixer taps, I mean there’s one in my kitchen after all. But you’re right, they are much less common. I wonder why that is? I’m not sure what the pissing grate is, I feel like I’ve seen one though.
What a strange thing to have a superiority complex over. “It is legal to install plumbing which can’t be mechanically cleaned.”
If you think a random piss-take shitpost is a “superiority complex” you most likely have an inferiority complex and shite plumbing mate 😂
as a non-plumber what are the benefits of a bottle vs P style trap?
No tools needed to clean it, you just unscrew that bit at the bottom, and also apparently you get a superiority complex according to some bloke on the internet lmao
They react with aluminium foil and make nice bombs when sealed inside a plastic bottle
This is the only thing I leaned in high school chemistry.
My teacher was also the football coach, though.
lmao, we used to call them “Works bombs” as a kid, because we’d use The Works cleaner for it.
Just to add, alkaline substances turn fats into soap, making them not only dissolve in water, but also help dissolving the surrounding fat.
Acids are much more harmful to metals, and wouldn’t have this effect.
Well, sometimes they create more problems than they supposedly solve. Chemical cleaners can damage pipes or even harden the clog. And if they don’t work you or a plumber will have a much worse work environment.
If it is actually the trap of your sink that is clogged, open it and remove the dirt. If the clog comes after the trap, hydro-mechanical cleaners are very effective and don’t damage the pipes. Those are basically hoses with a nozzle at one end and a thread for a pressure washer (expensive) or a faucet (cheap) on the other end. You push the hose into the pipe until it reaches the clog, then turn on the water and the water jet carves a hole into the clog. Very effective in my experience. The pressure washer will get rid of pretty much everything found in pipes, except roots and concrete. Even the cheap faucet type thing is good for the usual clogged sink.
Well, sometimes they create more problems than they supposedly solve.
This is really only the case if you use them incorrectly. Most people are not too bright
I’m not aware of any that are acid, usually they’re strong alkaline, NaOH or KOH which is extremely corrosive, but there are some that are enzymatic that are supposed to break down organic material, not very well in my experience.
Yeah, I cheaped out and bought a bottle of a store-brand cleaner which I think may be the enzyme type. It’s made a bit of progress, but not much so far. :(
The enzyme products are generally meant to be a maintenance thing, i.e. if you use them regularly they remove light buildups of crud stuck to the inner walls of your pipes before they build up into being thicker layers of crud, which become blockages (or just reduce the effective inner diameter of your pipes).
This stuff might theoretically clear the right kind of total clog, but it’s likely to take a long time.
My advice is to get yourself a drain snake. Chemical clog clearing products “may” work, with various pros and cons depending on the type of clog. But physical removal of the clog with a snake always works, you will never run out of your bottle of snake, and provided you manage not to fuck it up so badly that you break it the snake is also infinitely reusable.
Just get one of those 50’ long jobbies you can put on the end of a drill. That’s just fine for most residential work and should only run you $20 or $30 at the hardware store.
Most are strong bases and/or super strong industrial soaps.
Many of them contain lye, which is alkaline. Always read the label to check for compatibility with your pipes. Note that drain pipes can be made from a different material than your supply pipes. PVC and ABS are common, but there are other kinds.
They are caustic bases, like lye, and will eat through material that is causing a clog
The chemicals almost never work and they will make the plumber mad they have to deal with such toxic stuff.
I usually start with a plunger (we have one for the sink, and another for the toilet) If that doesn’t work then it’s better to just snake it. They sell little snakes and manual ones.
Right right except the chemicals have worked very well for me a dozen times. Never failed, in fact!
Clearly it depends on the situation.
Lye definitely works, it’s just chemistry
the hydrofluoric ones absolutely do work if snaking doesn’t.
