

Today many of switching mode power supplies accept anywhere between 100-250V
Today many of switching mode power supplies accept anywhere between 100-250V
bases of pins are insulated, like in type C/E/F
you don’t have to have three phase circuit to be affected by floating neutral in three-phase substation upstream. in some places in us there are 208v interphase three-phase circuits, which give 120v phase to neutral, which is distributed as a pair of wires as single-phase circuit. this is also normal way to deliver single-phase power in europe, as it’s most efficient use of conductor. (from 400v three-phase circuits) in case more power is needed than single-phase circuit can deliver, three-phase circuit is installed
if there’s switch on device, it’s 2p1t meaning both phase and neutral are switched. if it’s permanent, non-pluggable circuit, like lightning, it’s okay if only phase is switched (neutral is connected permanently)
it’s a bad practice to design appliance in such a way to assume that neutral will have low voltage, because in case of neutral failure in three-phase circuit you can get full voltage there, and there can be a couple of volts difference (sometimes more) between neutral and ground even in normal circumstances
it’s better to cut off both live and neutral at the same time anyway, especially if there’s no standard which is which. also, as device designer you don’t know if it’ll be used on a circuit that has neutral and phase where you think it’ll go or not. (ie british appliance used on unpolarized circuit, like type F. adapters exist)
Type E/F carries 16A/230V, and nowadays there are shutters included which only allow two pins to be inserted at once, not one but not the other. There’s no standard as of which pin should be L1 and neutral anyway, nor it should matter, and fuses in british plugs are to accommodate ring circuits, which were introduced as a result of copper shortages (ie decades of tech debt)
Or you could just use thicker wires like everyone else, or drop the use of ring mains, which is the actual reason why fuses in plugs were introduced. The reason why this was done was post-WW2 copper shortage. In other countries you’ll see more likely star type circuit
I think that type A plug would be greatly improved in terms of safety and mechanically if it was put in a grounded metal shroud, in style of DIN connector https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector it still would be compact, smaller than type F
is TRPV3 even involved in any way because last time i’ve checked some of best evidence points in direction of TrkB
UK uses type G. Type E/F plug has both contact for grounding pin like in type E and two sliding ground contacts on side like in type F. Sockets are either E or F, and i’ve mostly seen E
no, because it’ll just trip fuse, and stoves are wired directly anyway
C/E/F also have shutters, probably more types do that too
Type E and F plugs are not really a thing anymore, today it’s more common to find combined Type E/F plugs.
Fuses in british plugs are a mistake and only a requirement because of sketchy practices allowed in british electrical code immediately after WW2. Nobody else does that because nowhere else electric code is built in such a way that it is necessary. Switch seems to be mildly useful tho
with wood, the problem was with lignin which is tightly crosslinked, meaning that it’s insoluble and organism willing to eat it has to secrete some enzymes to break it down in smaller bits that can be absorbed
depending on plastic, this first step might be easier or even happening on its own. there are already bacteria that feed on nylon but nylon starting materials are easier to digest for them
llms allowed them to glide all the way to the point of failure without learning anything
you can have liquids with low surface tension that don’t evaporate immediately (water + soap)
helical antennas work fine too and look goofy as hell
i’ve used the same (800ml can) and this one works well. cookie tin is 15cm dia 8cm tall and it works, but size can vary a bit. you can copy or scale slightly designs of 13cm band antennas
wait i thought for some reason that pringles can sized waveguide would have cutoff frequency above 2.4ghz. nevermind, there’s something better because bigger aperture can get you more directivity like this https://lea.hamradio.si/~s53mv/wumca/cup.html i made two out of cookie tins and it works over 500m at least
pringles can is too small for 2.4ghz cantenna, it’s near cutoff frequency but just barely, you need 10cm-ish diameter can or shorter 16cm-ish can
in many flats even recently built you don’t get three-phase power, just single phase, but building divides single three-phase supply into three groups of single phase circuits like you say (do you really need 20kW in residential flat? one that doesn’t use EV charger, built in 90s-10s?) i guess it depends on country also. separate houses tend to get three phase connection where i live
floating neutral will also be a problem in american-type two-phase installation, might be even worse (more frequent) on account of large number of lightly maintained transformers used (why on gods green earth there’s few-kV medium voltage line going down every street, americans make it make sense)